韩国电视上令人意外的明星:赛百味三明治(Subway)
Korean TV's Unlikely Star: Subway Sandwiches
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2021-03-20 11:14
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火星译客

In an episode of the Korean television show “The K2,” which takes place in a world of fugitives and bodyguards, a man is being treated with a defibrillator when he enters into a dream state. On the fringe of death, he recalls taking a past love to a Subway restaurant and to a park for a picnic, where he gently feeds her a sandwich and soft drink with the Subway logo facing the camera.

韩国电视节目《The K2》讲述了逃亡者和保镖的故事,其中一个片段中,一名男子在接受除颤治疗时陷入了梦境。在死亡的边缘,他回忆起带着曾经的爱人去赛百味餐厅和公园野餐,他温柔地给她喂三明治和饮料,而赛百味的标志正冲着镜头。

The detail is not a narrative quirk. It is a result of South Korea’s broadcasting regulations and the aggressive use of product placement in the country’s shows by Subway, the American sandwich chain famous for its $5 foot-longs.

这个细节并不是什么拍摄错误。这是受到了韩国广播规则的影响,也是该国电视节目积极采用植入式广告的结果。美国赛百味连锁店凭借5英尺长的三明治而闻名。

“People joke, ‘If I had a drink every time Subway popped up, I’d be drunk before the first half is over,’” said Jae-Ha Kim, a journalist in Chicago who reviews Korean dramas. “Everyone here’s like, ‘I never got a Subway sandwich that looked that good, with that much meat.’”

“人们开玩笑说,‘如果每次出现一家赛百味,我就喝一杯,我会在进行一半之前就喝醉了,”芝加哥记者Jae Ha Kim在评论韩剧时说,“这里的每个人都说,‘我从来没有吃过向赛百味这么好吃,肉这么多的三明治。’”

Product placement in TV shows is a reality the world over. But South Korea’s terrestrial stations are prevented from inserting commercial breaks during programming, meaning many Korean companies must be creative about getting their wares in front of viewers. As Korean dramas have become more popular with international audiences, global brands have pushed to be part of the action.

电视节目中植入广告在全球是普遍出现的。但是,韩国的地方电视台不允许在节目制作过程中插播商业广告,这意味着许多韩国公司在电视上呈现产品的方式要有创新性。随着韩剧越来越受到国际观众的欢迎,全球品牌也纷纷加入其中。

And no company has pushed harder than Subway, which has grown into the world’s largest fast-food chain by store count since its founding in 1965 in Bridgeport, Conn.

没有哪家公司比赛百味更努力了,自从1965年在康涅狄格州布里奇波特成立以来,赛百味已经成长为世界上最大的快餐连锁店。

Colin Clark, the country director for Subway in South Korea, said product placements in popular dramas like “Descendants of the Sun” had a positive impact on global sales, specifically citing markets in China and Singapore.

韩国赛百味的主要负责人科林•克拉克(Colin Clark)表示,在《太阳的后裔》等热门电视剧中植入产品对全球销售产生了积极影响,特别是中国和新加坡的市场。

“I swear to you, it was a difference between night and day — before the product placement and after the product placement — the effect it had on the customers,” said Mr. Clark, who declined to provide specific sales figures.

克拉克先生说:“我向你保证,植入广告之前和之后对顾客产生的影响是有区别的。”不过,他拒绝提供具体的销售数字。

Subway did not provide a total of how many Korean dramas its products had appeared in, but an informal tally by The New York Times counted appearances on 17 shows. That can add up to a lot of people seeing the company’s cold cuts. Netflix, with over 203 million worldwide members, has become a leading portal for Korean dramas. When the highly anticipated Korean drama “Sweet Home” was released on Netflix in December, 22 million viewers watched the show in its first month.

赛百味并没有提供其产品在韩剧中出现的总数,但一份非正式统计显示,赛百味在17部韩剧中出现过。Netflix在全球拥有超过2.03亿的会员,已成为韩剧的主要门户网站。去年12月,备受期待的韩剧《甜蜜家园》在Netflix上映,第一个月就有2200万观众观看了该剧。

By sleekly presenting its products on Korean dramas as a harbinger of cool, Subway is also presenting a fresh image to American viewers who are increasingly watching the shows.

通过在韩剧中巧妙地宣传,赛百味展示了品牌酷炫的一面,也向越来越多观看韩剧的美国观众呈现了一个全新的形象。

Recently, the company has faced scrutiny of its bread, which an Irish court ruled is not bread, and its tuna, which a lawsuit claimed is “anything but tuna.”

最近,该公司面临对其面包的审查,其中爱尔兰法院裁定赛百味的面包并不是面包,还有一个诉讼声称赛百味所谓的金枪鱼可能是“任何东西,但绝不是金枪鱼”

But on TV, pristinely clean Subway shops that pop with bright colors serve as the setting for business meetings, social gossip and dates for beautiful couples. Instead of cookies and tea, elderly Korean TV characters keep freshly wrapped Subway sandwiches at the ready — you never can know when an unexpected guest will drop by and crave an Italian sub.

但在电视上,干净整洁,色彩明亮的赛百味成为了商务会议、社交闲谈和情侣浪漫约会的场所。韩国电视剧中年长的角色不吃饼干和茶,而是随时准备着新鲜的赛百味三明治——你永远不知道什么时候会有一位意想不到的客人想要吃赛百味。

On the popular Korean drama “Crash Landing on You,” North Korean soldiers and a South Korean businesswoman find common ground through Subway sandwiches.

正在热播的韩剧《爱的迫降》中,一位朝鲜军人和一名韩国女总裁通过赛百味找到了他们之间的共同点。

Product placement in Korean shows began in earnest in 2010, when South Korea’s stringent broadcasting laws eased restrictions on the practice in an effort to increase network revenues and promote Korean goods. In 2018, South Korea’s networks sold $114 million worth of product placement, up 15 percent from the previous year, according to Soobum Lee, a mass communication professor at Incheon National University.

韩国电视节目中的植入式广告开始于2010年,当时韩国严格的广播法放宽了对植入式广告的限制,以增加网络收入,推广韩国产品。仁川国立大学大众传播学教授Soobum Lee称,2018年,韩国网络销售了价值1.14亿美元的植入式广告,比前一年增长15%。

Shows collect an average of about $900,000 from product placements, although 2016’s “Descendants of the Sun” sold triple that amount, Mr. Lee said. It was also criticized by some viewers for excessive product placement.

他还表示说,尽管2016年《太阳的后裔》销量是这一数字的三倍,但该剧平均从广告植入中获得约90万美元的收入。也有部分观众批评其过度植入广告。

Other American companies, like Papa John’s Pizza, have used product placements in Korean dramas, but none are as ubiquitous as Subway.

其他一些美国公司,如papajohn's Pizza,也曾在韩剧中使用过产品植入,但没有一家像Subway那样无处不在。

Ms. Kim said these kinds of shoehorned ads had become popular topics of discussion online, with some fans claiming they disrupt plots and threatening to stop watching altogether.

金女士说,这类鞋钉广告已经成为网上讨论的热门话题,一些粉丝声称这些广告破坏了情节,并威胁要停止观看。

She pointed to criticism of the show “Guardian: The Lonely and Great God” (also known as “Goblin”) and a scene where it’s inferred that the protagonist prevents a man from committing sui/cide; in an effort to cheer him up, the suicidal man is handed a Subway sandwich. Subway is also celebrated in death; in another episode, the Grim Reaper is shown enjoying a meal from the chain.

她批评了电视剧《孤独又灿烂的神》(又称“鬼怪”),还有一个场景中,主角为了阻止一个男人自杀,让他振作起来,递给他一个赛百味三明治。赛百味的成功建立在死亡之上;还有一个情节,死神在享受着赛百味的美食。

“I know in the U.S. people are sick of it,” Ms. Kim said of the product placement. “We’ve had Subway, we know it’s not good. Stop trying to make it seem good.”

“我知道在美国人们已经厌倦了它,”金女士在谈到植入式广告时说。“我们吃过赛百味,知道它并没有那么好吃。别再让它看起来很好吃了。”

While American viewers may roll their eyes at Subway’s being portrayed as haute cuisine, Seung-Chul Yoo, a communications professor at Ewha Womans University in Seoul, said product placement had been proved to work.

韩国光州女子大学的传播学教授Seung Chul-Yoo说,尽管美国观众可能会对塞北味被描绘成高级美食而感到厌恶,但是已经可以证明植入式广告是有效的。

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