中国艺术家变废弃物为高级时尚
The Chinese artist turning trash into high fashion
1068字
2019-12-01 16:38
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火星译客

Contributors Stella Ko, CNN

投稿人CNN记者斯特拉·柯

Two pairs of dusty, pastel-orange roller skates. A ram's skull. Several meters of tangled, bright red rope. They aren't the sort of items you'd find in the great fashion houses of Europe or on North American catwalks.

两双淡橙色旱冰鞋,布满灰尘。一个公羊的头盖骨。几米长的鲜红色绳子,绕在一起。以上这些物品都不该出现在欧洲时尚展厅的或是北美T台之上。

But, for unconventional Chinese designer and performance artist Wan Yunfeng, they are perfect.

但是,对于中国创新设计者和行为艺术家万云峰而言,这些就是最棒的时尚代表。

From his small apartment in eastern Beijing, Wan makes fashion that only he wears.

他住在北京市区东边的一间小公寓里,设计时尚的衣服,但这些衣服只有他自己会穿。

His distinctive gowns are crafted from discarded items, draped and twisted around his body and photographed to send a message about the destructive power of human consumption.

他身上的特色外袍由废弃物品制作而成,袍子裹着他的身体,扭曲着,并被拍摄下来,传达着人类消费行为的破坏力。

"I make clothes to bring awareness to the environment, it is performance art. So of course you can't wear these clothes in daily life, it is to deliver a message of environmental protection," he said.

他说:”我设计衣服是为唤醒人们保护环境的意识,是一种行为艺术。你们当然不能日常穿着我设计的这些衣服,但穿着行为本身传达着一中信息,即保护环境。

In his latest photo series, the "Protection of the Ocean," Wan's outfits make him appear entangled in nets and plastic waste, his tortured facial expressions designed to mirror the pain of trapped, ocean animals.

在他最近名为“保护海洋”的影集里,万云峰让自己缠在网和塑料垃圾之中,面部表情扭曲,而这扭曲的表情折射是的海洋动物身陷海洋垃圾的痛苦。

An image from Wan's new project, "Protection of the Ocean," in which he mirrors the plight of trapped marine animals.

An image from Wan's new project, "Protection of the Ocean," in which he mirrors the plight of trapped marine animals.

这是“保护海洋”影集中的一张照片。万云峰通过此照片表达海洋动物身陷海洋垃圾的痛苦。

Credit: Cheng Chong

摄影:程冲

"I want to reconstruct the scenes of those animals struggling before their deaths, caused by ocean pollution," he said.

他说:”我想重现这些动物在死前苦苦挣扎的场景,而他们的死归咎于海洋污染。“

Inspiration on stage

舞台灵感

Wan grew up in a small, scenic town in the eastern area of Fushun, a city of more than 2 million people in northeastern Liaoning Province.

抚顺市在辽宁省的东北部,人口超过两百万,而万云峰就在抚顺市东部的一个小城镇长大,那里风景优美。

He inherited his artistic streak from his father, Wan Lun, who was a performer in the local errenzhuan theater, a type of Chinese opera from the country's northeast that is performed by two people.

他从父亲万伦那里继承了艺术的特质。父亲曾是当地二人转剧院的演员。二人转是中国东北的一种乡村艺术,一般由两人上场表演。

An elaborate outfit made from discarded plastic bottles.

An elaborate outfit made from discarded plastic bottles.

由塑料瓶精心制作而成的服装

Credit: Cheng Chong

摄影:程冲

Errenzhuan is more relaxed and relatable than the high culture of Peking opera, and features a cabaret-style mix of comedy, singing and dancing.

相比京剧这种高雅艺术,二人转更接地气,给人放松的感觉,是一种卡巴莱风格的戏剧,而且又唱又跳。

Wan used to watch his father on stage, but it was his female partners' bright, distinctive costumes that caught his eye.

万云峰过去经常看父亲登台表演,但是真正吸引他眼球是父亲女性搭档那鲜艳独特的戏服。

"I loved the costumes more than the opera," he said. "Male costumes aren't powerful -- their color and style is very simple. But female clothing can be dramatic," he said.

他说:”我爱那戏服胜过二人转本身。男性演员的戏服力量感不足,颜色和款式都很平淡,但是女性演员的戏服引人注目。“

After leaving home, Wan drifted through different careers -- for a while he was an actor, then a make-up artist working with some of China's top celebrities.

离家闯荡后,万云峰做过很多不同的工作,曾做过一段时间演员,也干过化妆师,为中国的一些顶级明星化妆。

Related video: A short history of the fashion show

视频来源:时装秀简史

But his thoughts kept coming back to the dresses he saw on stage as a child. During a visit back to his parents' house, he found a pile of discarded clothes and linen.

但是他还心心念念儿时在舞台上看到的戏服。有一次回到父母的老屋,他找到一些丢弃的衣服和亚麻布。

"A sudden whim came into my head, and then I designed them into something I wanted ... to make them alive," he said.

他说:”突然脑子里有了念头,然后就把这些东西设计成活着的样子。“

East meets West

东西方艺术碰撞

In his apartment in Beijing, Wan collects piles of used items on beds, in bags and stacked in small plastic drawers.

在他北京的公寓,无论是床上,袋子里还是小塑料抽屉里,装满了收集而来的成堆的旧物件。

"I ask for materials from everyone. Some come from my daily life... some come from my friends," Wan said. "I also travel globally. I go to some antique markets and flea markets to buy things. You need to make it beautiful."

他说:”我的旧物件来自我身边的人。有的是自己日常生活攒的...有的找朋友要的。我也到处旅游,每到一处也会去古玩市场或是跳瘙市场买一些。但是需要让它们看起来漂亮一些。

The self-taught designer draws on both traditional Chinese as well as Western influences, from the classic Chinese qipao dress to the late designer Karl Lagerfeld. "His design is creative and also for daily use. I worship him," Wan said.

这位自学的设计师受到自来中国传统艺术和西方艺术的影响,中国的影响来自有古典的旗袍,西方的影响来自已故设计师卡尔·拉格斐。他说:“卡尔·拉格斐的设计很有创意,也很适用。我很崇拜他。”

An outfit made of recycled denim, a miniature Eiffel Tower and long, red Chinese tassels.

An outfit made of recycled denim, a miniature Eiffel Tower and long, red Chinese tassels.

由回收牛仔布、迷你埃菲尔铁塔和中国红缨制成的衣服

Credit: Jim Liang

摄影:吉姆 · 亮

Wan has posed in his creations in some of the world's major fashion cities: Paris, New York, Milan.

万云峰在一些世界主要时尚之都展示了他的作品,例如巴黎、纽约和米兰。

In Paris, near the Eiffel Tower, he wore an outfit made of recycled denim with a miniature version of the landmark on his head, accessorized with long, red Chinese tassels. He called the piece "Paris cowboy."

在巴黎埃菲尔铁塔附近,他身穿回收牛仔布做的衣服,头顶迷你版埃菲尔铁塔,还有一些中国红缨做装饰。他将之称为“巴黎牛仔”。

Outside the Louvre, in a creation called "The Northeast Flower," he modeled an old quilt cover that had been transformed into a Western-style ballgown with a makeshift pagoda-style crown. Wan said he chose the Louvre as a location to emphasize the cultural blend of his work -- the materials he used in that creation were Chinese but the design was distinctly European.

卢浮宫外,一件名为“东北之花”的作品,他身穿旧被面制成的西式风格的舞会礼服,头戴临时制成的宝塔风格的皇冠。他说之所以选卢浮宫为地点是为了强调作品背后的文化融合——材料来自中国,设计源于欧洲。

"It's a China-West collaboration. I really love Chinese culture and European culture, so I mixed them together to create something new," he said.

他说:“这件作品是中西合作而来。我非常热爱中国和欧洲文化,所以将之融合从而创造一些新事物。”

Wan transformed an old quilt cover into a Western-style ballgown.

Wan transformed an old quilt cover into a Western-style ballgown.

万云峰变就被面为西式舞会礼服

Credit: Bai Chenyin

摄影:白尘音

Some of his work has a more modern edge, as seen in "Crazy IKEA," a series of images taken in New York's Times Square, which show Wan dressed in a bright blue gown made of IKEA shopping bags.

他的一些作品更具现代感,如“疯狂的宜家”(Crazy IKEA)所示,这是在纽约时代广场拍摄的一组照片,这些照片里万云峰穿着由宜家购物袋制成的明亮蓝色礼服。

The pastel-orange roller skates, ram's skull and tangled rope seen lying in his apartment will be used in his next project, a call for animal protection.

他的下一个作品将使用粉橙色溜冰鞋,公羊的头骨和他公寓中的缠结绳索,寓意对动物的保护。

An image taken in New York's Times Square shows Wan dressed in a bright blue gown made of IKEA shopping bags.

An image taken in New York's Times Square shows Wan dressed in a bright blue gown made of IKEA shopping bags.

万云峰身着由宜家购物袋制成的鲜蓝色礼服在纽约时代广场

Credit: A Ji

摄影:阿吉

'I'm not just a model'

‘我不仅仅是个模特’

At home, Wan has encountered resistance to his avant-garde style.

在国内,人们不理解万云峰的前卫风格。

Commentators on Chinese social media have criticized everything from the cut of this clothes to the shape of his legs. They ask why he dresses as a woman and lifts his legs so high when he walks. On the latter, Wan explains that movement is part of his performance.

中国社交媒体的评论员从头到尾批评了他,从衣服设计到腿部形状的所有事物。 他们质问为什么他穿得像个女人,走路时双腿抬得那么高。 对于后者,万云峰解释说抬腿的动作是他行为艺术的一部分。

"It is because I am imitating how animals walk. There are a lot of endangered animals in the world so when I walk on the road it is to express how animals walk, and I hope people can understand that," he said.

他说:“这是因为我在模仿动物的行走方式。世界上有许多濒临灭绝的动物,所以当我在路上行走时,就是要表达动物的行走方式,希望人们能理解这一点。”

"When people don't get it I tell them that I'm not just a model walking a runway, but a person trying to spread the message of environmental protection."

“当人们不理解时,我告诉他们,我不仅是走在路上的模特,而且是一个试图传播环保意识的人。”

"I want to reconstruct the scenes of those animals struggling before their deaths, caused by the ocean pollution," Wan said.

"I want to reconstruct the scenes of those animals struggling before their deaths, caused by the ocean pollution," Wan said.

他说:”我想重现这些动物在死前苦苦挣扎的场景,而他们的死归咎于海洋污染。“

Credit: Cheng Chong

摄影:程冲

The criticism has affected Wan in the past.

过去来自社会的批评对万云峰的影响很大

At one point, he postponed his work and threw out many of his earlier creations. But now he has decided it is important for him to carry on. "If even just one person is influenced by me, I should do it," he said.

曾经,他暂缓了他的工作,并扔掉了许多早期的作品。 但是现在他决定继续下去,因为这对他来说很重要。 他说:“即使只有一人受我影响意识到环保的重要性,我也应该这样做下去。”

"Criticism is OK, exaggeration is OK too. I just have to protect our environment. I just believe that everyone should work to protect our environment, don't you think?"

“批评我没关系,夸大我的行为也没关系。我只想保护我们的环境。我相信每个人都应该保护我们的环境,你不觉得吗?”

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